Ishtar Skinlights 1% Bioactive Retinol Serum Review
I've been using Retinol for about 18 months now. Starting off with The Ordinary 2% Advanced Retinol and then choosing the Ishtar Skinlights 1% Bioactive Retinol as a replacement choice.
It's been well and truly universally agreed that Retinol is the absolute superstar anti-aging ingredient and an essential product for anyone over 30 - helping to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles; helping to even out skin texture and tone; firms the skin and can fight the effects of external stressors.
Ishtar Skinlights 1% Bioactive Retinol
£13 for 30ml BUY HERE
Firstly, I just need to give some major props to Ishtar Skinlight as a brand. A British indie skincare brand based in Truro, Cornwall, who were the first UK brand to offer mandelic acid products and the only one to offer organic, treatment strength mandelic acid products.
They have a wide and impressive range of skin care products for every skin type. Their ranges focus upon retinol, stabilised vitamin C, enzymes, peptides and alpha hydroxy acids, all formulated with natural botanical extracts. If you are looking for an affordable replacement to The Ordinary products (as I was) then this is a great starting place. Or actually, just plain and simple looking for affordable, great skincare products full stop!
Claims:
"Ishtar Skinlights retinol products are designed to intensively repair ageing/damaged skin. Retinol has proven benefits for many different skin types and can help improve eczema, acne, sun damage and the signs of aging. Best results are achieved after 8-12 weeks of use.
This 1% Serum is ideal if you are just starting to use retinol. It can be used daily. Vitamin A is a powerful skin repair agent. Higher concentrations of retinol can cause minor irritation in some skin types, such as dryness and peeling. This serum is suitable for all skin types and can help your skin adjust to retinol before progressing to higher concentration products such as our 2.5% cream."
Ingredients:
Water, Organic Aloe Vera, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Extract, Witch Hazel, Pentylene Glycol, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Phosphate, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carrageenan Gum, Organic Jojoba Oil, Wheatgerm Oil, Vitamin E, Organic Green Tea Extract, Organic Gotu Kola Extract, Organic Horsetail Extract, Organic Geranium Extract, Organic Dandilion Extract, Propolis, Phospholipids, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethyl Hexyl Glycerin
Packaging:
Comes in a sturdy plastic pump dispenser - the type of dispenser that has a 'lift' type bottom - as the product gets used the inner bottom moves up ensuring that you are not left scraping around the bottom of the tube trying to get the last remnants of product out! Much appreciated in packaging. The pump dispenses exactly the right amount of product for one use ensuring no extra waste.
Texture and Scent and application:
Odourless and colourless, this is a gel type serum which absorbs fairly quickly and sits well with other products in your routine. Ishtar recommend that it is best not to apply retinol *at the same time* as vitamin C, as both of these antioxidants use the same pathways to take effect in the skin. There is better skin uptake if you leave a 20min+ gap between the two.
I have been using this in my evening routine, but I haven't chosen to use it on the same night as any Vitamin C products - preferring instead to alternate on different nights. So although Ishtar recommend usage of building up from an initial once-a-week to eventual every night use, I have so far only used this 2-3 times a week in the p.m.
However, as I near the end of this product and because I have introduced another Ishtar Skinlights Vitamin C product to morning use (the Perfect & Glow serum) I am currently using this every night.
Possible side effects:
It's been well-documented that Retinol can cause peeling and dryness, particularly with stronger formulations and prescribed treatments. With both the 1% Bioactive Retinol and also The Ordinary's 2% Advanced Retinoid (which has since been reformulated) I never experienced any irritation, peeling or noticeable dryness. BUT, it's important to remember that YMMV - what works well and without irritation for one person's skin may not be the same for another. I don't have particularly sensitive skin so that may be why I haven't suffered any ill effects.
Thoughts:
As previously mentioned, I never experienced any peeling, irritation or dryness when using this serum. It's gentle but effective and for that reason I would highly recommend this as an entry-level to retinols. Despite Aloe Vera being high up in the ingredients list (I have some sensitivity issues with products that contain a high level of Aloe) I never felt any tingling or sensitivity from Aloe being in the ingredients. On the contrary, this is a very soothing and calming serum - which almost feels at odds with being such a powerful treatment!
Results:
Now this is a tricky one to define! Had I been using this product on it's own without using any other treatments or actives, then I may have a definitive answer. But because this is just one product in my skincare routine which includes other products promising the same type of results, I cannot exactly pinpoint which product has given the best results - it's all part of a combined and lengthy process.
Considering that I've been using acids and other treatments for two years, and also taking into consideration that I'm 47 years old, I can honestly say that my skin has looked so much better in those two years. I think it's safe to say that from the ages of 45 to 47, if I wasn't using dedicated products I would definitely noticed some further visible aging during that time.
As it is, my skin is looking pretty smooth and even-textured. Yes, I have fine lines, but I think (going on earlier photographs of my skin) that they have diminished and certainly my static '11' lines on my forehead are not so pronounced. Crow's feet and laughter lines are not hugely visible and I certainly don't seem to have accrued any more during the past couple of years - not noticeably anyway, so I'm guessing that those claims can be considered accurate. I've noticed that my marionette lines have perhaps been more noticeable so firmness is a thing that I need to address. But my skin health is so much better - apart from the odd hormonal flare-up, my skin is generally bright and glowy and healthy looking. I don't yet have any signs of aging on my neck (which I'm guessing would have been visible at my age) so all-in-all I feel confident that my skin is in pretty good condition for my age as a result of this product (and others).
My next step is to move on to the Ishtar Skinlights Bioactive 2.5% Retinol since I tolerated and enjoyed using the 1% so well.
This 1% Serum is ideal if you are just starting to use retinol. It can be used daily. Vitamin A is a powerful skin repair agent. Higher concentrations of retinol can cause minor irritation in some skin types, such as dryness and peeling. This serum is suitable for all skin types and can help your skin adjust to retinol before progressing to higher concentration products such as our 2.5% cream."
Ingredients:
Water, Organic Aloe Vera, Cassia Angustifolia Seed Extract, Witch Hazel, Pentylene Glycol, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Phosphate, Hydroxyethyl Cellulose, Carrageenan Gum, Organic Jojoba Oil, Wheatgerm Oil, Vitamin E, Organic Green Tea Extract, Organic Gotu Kola Extract, Organic Horsetail Extract, Organic Geranium Extract, Organic Dandilion Extract, Propolis, Phospholipids, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ethyl Hexyl Glycerin
Packaging:
Comes in a sturdy plastic pump dispenser - the type of dispenser that has a 'lift' type bottom - as the product gets used the inner bottom moves up ensuring that you are not left scraping around the bottom of the tube trying to get the last remnants of product out! Much appreciated in packaging. The pump dispenses exactly the right amount of product for one use ensuring no extra waste.
Texture and Scent and application:
Odourless and colourless, this is a gel type serum which absorbs fairly quickly and sits well with other products in your routine. Ishtar recommend that it is best not to apply retinol *at the same time* as vitamin C, as both of these antioxidants use the same pathways to take effect in the skin. There is better skin uptake if you leave a 20min+ gap between the two.
I have been using this in my evening routine, but I haven't chosen to use it on the same night as any Vitamin C products - preferring instead to alternate on different nights. So although Ishtar recommend usage of building up from an initial once-a-week to eventual every night use, I have so far only used this 2-3 times a week in the p.m.
However, as I near the end of this product and because I have introduced another Ishtar Skinlights Vitamin C product to morning use (the Perfect & Glow serum) I am currently using this every night.
Possible side effects:
It's been well-documented that Retinol can cause peeling and dryness, particularly with stronger formulations and prescribed treatments. With both the 1% Bioactive Retinol and also The Ordinary's 2% Advanced Retinoid (which has since been reformulated) I never experienced any irritation, peeling or noticeable dryness. BUT, it's important to remember that YMMV - what works well and without irritation for one person's skin may not be the same for another. I don't have particularly sensitive skin so that may be why I haven't suffered any ill effects.
Thoughts:
As previously mentioned, I never experienced any peeling, irritation or dryness when using this serum. It's gentle but effective and for that reason I would highly recommend this as an entry-level to retinols. Despite Aloe Vera being high up in the ingredients list (I have some sensitivity issues with products that contain a high level of Aloe) I never felt any tingling or sensitivity from Aloe being in the ingredients. On the contrary, this is a very soothing and calming serum - which almost feels at odds with being such a powerful treatment!
Results:
Now this is a tricky one to define! Had I been using this product on it's own without using any other treatments or actives, then I may have a definitive answer. But because this is just one product in my skincare routine which includes other products promising the same type of results, I cannot exactly pinpoint which product has given the best results - it's all part of a combined and lengthy process.
Considering that I've been using acids and other treatments for two years, and also taking into consideration that I'm 47 years old, I can honestly say that my skin has looked so much better in those two years. I think it's safe to say that from the ages of 45 to 47, if I wasn't using dedicated products I would definitely noticed some further visible aging during that time.
As it is, my skin is looking pretty smooth and even-textured. Yes, I have fine lines, but I think (going on earlier photographs of my skin) that they have diminished and certainly my static '11' lines on my forehead are not so pronounced. Crow's feet and laughter lines are not hugely visible and I certainly don't seem to have accrued any more during the past couple of years - not noticeably anyway, so I'm guessing that those claims can be considered accurate. I've noticed that my marionette lines have perhaps been more noticeable so firmness is a thing that I need to address. But my skin health is so much better - apart from the odd hormonal flare-up, my skin is generally bright and glowy and healthy looking. I don't yet have any signs of aging on my neck (which I'm guessing would have been visible at my age) so all-in-all I feel confident that my skin is in pretty good condition for my age as a result of this product (and others).
My next step is to move on to the Ishtar Skinlights Bioactive 2.5% Retinol since I tolerated and enjoyed using the 1% so well.
If I were using a rating system here, it would definitely be a five star rating - this is a beautiful, well-formulated product; great price; fantastic brand and more importantly, a product that works well, not only in terms of results but in ease of use but also fits perfectly into an established skin care routine.
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